Vietnam

We had three wonderful weeks in Vietnam which started off rather strangely. We landed in a deserted Hanoi city the day after the Lunar New Year celebrations. Most of the restaurants and shops were closed, leaving only a few small family run businesses for us to visit. This is where Aaran discovered pho, a simple yet delicious noodle dish.

We found a small restaurant that only had 2 tables and few chairs, there was no menu because they only served one dish. We sat down and watched as the lady sitting in the entrance shredded chicken and mixed some noddles in our bowls. She then poured in some steaming hot broth. It was incredibly full of flavour and only cost $1.50! 

We have seen absolutely everything on motorbikes during our 2 months in Asia. Mattresses, crates full of eggs, a family of 5 including a newborn baby. It almost became a game to try to spot the most ridiculous thing we could. This guy topped our list because of how happy he looked. 

The thing to do in Vietnam is to sit at a tiny table on the side of the road, eating or drinking whatever is being sold at that particular shop (coffee, beer, tea, noodles).  The Vietnamese coffee is very bitter and nutty. If you ask for a white coffee they put condensed milk at the bottom of the cup and pour the coffee over it. The cup of coffee in the photo above is served in a bowl of boiling water to keep it hot.

The main site to see in Hanoi is the Hoan Kiem Lake. There are beautiful gardens surrounding the water and a small temple that you can access from bridge.

After a couple days in Hanoi we booked a tour to Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are over a thousand islands all varying in size. We decided to go with the 3 day 2 night option to get the chance to visit one of the islands. The boat took us around for a few hours and we sat on the top deck to get the best view. We then spent the night on Cat Ba Island and woke up early to hike up to the peak of one of the mountains. 

The first stop on the boat ride was this grand cathedral cave called Thien Cung Grotto or Heavenly Cave. The ceilings were so high and the lights they had set up inside made the whole place look magical.  

We were dropped off at the entrance of the Cat Ba Island National Park early in the morning to get a view of the Island from the top of a mountain. It was about an hour hike up to the top and the view was spectacular. 

After our hike we were taken back to the boat for another day of cruising around. There were beautiful views from each side of the boat, hundreds of small limestone islets are absolutely everywhere. While we really enjoyed our time in Ha Long Bay it's too bad to see how touristy it has become. The night we slept on the boat we were anchored next to a small fishing village that had to listen to our loud music all night. 

Our next stop was the quiet village of Mai Chau. It was about a 3 hour bus ride from Hanoi. Our shared room in a bamboo hut set on stilts. The floor was made of very strong bamboo slats but we couldn't help but feel like we would fall through. It was surprisingly very comfortable in there at night with our mosquito nets and just a fan to keep us cool. 

Our guide lead us around the rice fields on bicycle. It was a great way to get around and we got to see quite a lot. We were lucky enough to be there while the farmers were planting their seedlings. They initially plant the rice in a very small area and wait for them to start growing. On the day we were there they were removing the seedlings and replanting them in the larger fields. They started as soon as the sun came up to avoid the heat during the middle of the day. 

When walking through local markets you see weird and wonderful things. Absolutely anything goes, from selling pig heads to live frogs with their legs broken so they can't jump away. These barbecued intestines on the left were a first for us. Although it's something similar to black pudding, I can't imagine that it was prepared with much hygiene in mind.

On our second day in Mai Chau we climbed up the the Thousand Step Cave, which ended being 1200 steps. It was 35 degrees but we climbed up before the sun made it over the mountains so the heat was bearable. The cave wasn't that spectacular but the view from the top was great. 

From Hanoi we took a 16 hour overnight train to the picturesque city of Hoi An. Our small beds were surprisingly comfortable and the journey was pleasant. Although the town is touristy, the laid back atmosphere made it a nice break from very busy Hanoi. 

Everything is Hoi An was extremely photogenic. The small river going through the city, vintage bicycles parked in front of cafes, colourful flowers and walls. I think we have more pictures of this small city than any other place we have visited so far. 

From Hoi An we took a day trip to the ancient ruins of My Son. Sadly only a few of the temples survived the bombing that occurred during the Vietnam War. 

The French introduced the baguette to Vietnam during the colonial period. The Vietnamese then created a delicious sandwich called 'banh mi', usually made with pork, sausage, pate and thinly sliced vegetables. I read on a blog that the best banh mi in Vietnam was at this small stall in the Hoi An markets. There was a line up so we waited quite a while, but our wait was rewarded with the tastiest sandwich we've ever had.

Our amazing Banh Mi dinner sparked some kind of food fury in us and the German couple we were with. For the next couple hours the four of us went around trying nearly anything we could find being sold by street vendors. This one was the famous White Rose of Hoi An. A shrimp dumpling served cold with crispy fried garlic flakes. 

We happened to be in Hoi An on the day of the full moon festival. It's a monthly celebration that was originally religious but had turned into a bit of a tourist trap. Locals sell lanterns that you can then place on the river and watch as it floats downstream. All the restaurants and shops turn off their lights at 7 pm and operate by candle light. Those who are religious organize chanting sessions in their shops as a sort of blessing for the coming month. 

Our last day in Hoi An was spent diving and snorkelling around Cham Island. The water was cold but the coral was amazing to look at. There were both hard and soft corals as well as colourful fish to look at. 

We got to have lunch on the actual island instead of on the boat and got to enjoy a few hours on the beach. It was one of our last days in Vietnam and it was great to be away from the loud and busy city.

Vietnam was without a doubt the noisiest place we have been. Because everyone gets around on motorbikes that zigzag through traffic, they operate on a honking system. This means that whenever you step foot outside you are met with a symphony of honks. Not only that, but the motorbikes tend to jump onto the sidewalks to avoid traffic, so you constantly have to watch where you are going. Needless to say we were very excited to be headed to much less hectic Cambodia!